Three finger drag climbing reddit. I had an experience almost identical to yours.
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Three finger drag climbing reddit I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. The three finger drag feels so good, my fingers feel loose and warm. I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. I had a similar situation and it took me maybe 4 months to get up to bodyweight with a 3 finger drag and I was at a similar strength to you on a half crimp. It took about 1-2 months to get back to no-pain. I've talked to a few people who are doing custom plans from Lattice Training and it seems Lattice likes to prescribe 30s density hangs for 3fd The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably move me into a half crimp finger position. You are right that its almost impossible to 3 finger open hold most indoor tiny crimps. First, stop all climbing until you can use basic non-drag 4-finger and 5-finger grip positions without pain. It didn't occur to me that there was anything different about 4 fingers drag on a hold and 3 finger open and that held my recovery back for a long time. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Around 14:23 he shows a mind-boggling feat of strength by hanging one-handed three-finger drag on a beastmaker 2000 middle edge and can even flex his hand under that load. I climb in an area where all the rock is limestone, and I did find that 2/3 finger pockets felt significantly less "tweaky" after I started training 3 finger drag on the hangboard. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. It worked! My 3 finger drag got ALOT stronger, and I feel no tweakiness in both drag/2 finger positions. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit stronger. . To get used to 3 finger dragging when climbing you really have to focus on using it. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. I understand training it will probably make me a more well-rounded climber strength-wise, but does anyone have evidence (quantitative or anecdotal) of the benefit of training 3-finger May 1, 2024 · The Three Types of Crimps. However, now when I am doing moves that require open hand grips, I almost instinctually switch to a 3 finger drag on the These are kind of your 3 basic grips without dropping fingers or adding in pinches/slopers. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. I’m not sure how much you weigh but for most adults your numbers here are going to be less than 1. I started at -20% bodyweight with 3 finger drag on the hangboard, and eventually worked up to +20% bodyweight. It's like retraining your body to hold a spoon differently. in general use the injured finger only with the two surrounding fingers also engaged, as this will take some load off the lumbrical muscle This post could have been written by me a few years ago. Take off as much weight as you can with a pulley, then slowly remove weight over the weeks/months as the 3 finger drag gets stronger. Really try and focus and you will get better at it, and it will help your fingers See full list on gripped. For example, if you’ve hurt a pulley when crimping then it may still be possible to climb using an open/drag grip on easy and mid-level terrain. 5 strength to weight ratio meaning that you’re probably climbing at moderate grades and you have significant headroom for your finger strength to improve. Thumb catches. But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. e. May 10, 2022 · The same principle can also be applied when rehabilitating a finger injury. 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), i. It will feel weird because your body isn't used to it and your reflex will be to default to a non 3-finger drag. I am now completely back to normal, and now my 3-finger drag is much stronger. Oft I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. Watched the Dave Macleod lattice assessment youtube video recently and was impressed how strong his 3 finger drag is. They just feel comfortable, I don't really know how to explain it. A common oversight when climbing on rock is to find the edge but miss the accompanying thumb-catch. com Nov 2, 2024 · This is where I think three-finger drag hangboarding might be useful: in submaximal longer duration hangs to invoke lumbrical elongation (stretch your muscles) but also avoid the risk of injuries. Like I said: Google it. My surgeon (a 5. Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). Personally my open hand climbing is significantly weaker than my crimping and I would like to bring this weakness up. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. I had an experience almost identical to yours. Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. xjlgv vsnp wbl xck zkybg umy eguqh hwf nbbqiu kymvz
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