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Quad anchor vs sliding x forum The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self Moved Permanently. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. 2) It can be difficult to clip another carabiner into the main point of a sliding-X when it is weighted. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a Feb 2, 2025 · Quad Anchor Method. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. g. To create a sliding X: Clip a single sling to the carabiners at each anchor point. If you must do so, make sure you have clipped the carabiner through the sling in exactly the same way as the original carabiner. This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. The sliding X is a relatively simple way to connect two anchor points, while creating a system that adjusts to the direction of pull. The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . Without a solid and secure point (preferably more than one) in your anchor your best bet is to bail**. And, contrary to popular belief, neither are “self-equalizing” anchors (e. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as identical theoretical anchors and forces for each comparable setup, which is stronger? Someone good with physics, and a little free time, should be able Jun 22, 2021 · Basically saying that 1 in a million scenarios will cause a quad to fail, but fail to acknowledge that there are plenty of 1 in a million scenarios that cause any other anchor to fail as well. The document has moved here. Lots and lots of testing as well as theorizing has been done on sliding X's by now. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. . Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. However, not wanting to make this mistake, I was testing with my own 240cm sling and getting very different results. This setup limits (catches) the carabiners in the event that one side of the anchor fails. Rule #1: Use bomber anchor points*. This is often due to friction in the Sep 1, 2008 · True shock loading occurs when you do something like attach to anchor directly with a daisy chain or static sling, climb above the anchor, then fall. In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. According to tests done Duane Raleigh at Rock & Ice Magazine, shock loading does not occur in a failed sliding X configuration with moderate extension as long as you are using dynamic rope. 2021 . Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. Research conducted and compiled by Thomas Evans shows that with static loads, LD anchors (LD= load distributing, AKA “self-equalizing” anchors) don’t distribute the load equally between legs. Here, you need to double your cordellete so that it has four equal strands of length. I think it fair to say that the results suggest that you cannot, in general, count on any equalization advantage from a sliding X over some fixed system, and when you get to three-anchor situations the sliding systems can be far worse than fixed ones. Moved Permanently. Oct 7, 2016 · Read an anchor building book if you haven't already and, if you can, find a more experienced friend to go through this with you in person. No amount of rigging trickery can make a weak placement stronger. the Sliding-X and Quad). Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. I use the sliding-x with limiters for my top rope anchor, and I see a few benefits over the other options: given the same sling/cordellette length, it's twice as long as the quad, alleviate rope drag and crossing over ledges the twist makes it more redundant than a pure equalette, almost as much as a quad 1. A sliding X rigged from a single 60 cm will have just as much reach as a quad build from a 120 cm sling, and a sliding X 120cm will give you more reach than any of the previously mentioned options. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. Derek DeBruin . Oct 15, 2022 · I saw this video, youtu. Rule #1 BACK TO TOP. Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more complex to make. 1. be/she8vH1DCBU and at around 13:30, they talk about how you have to choose specific strands out of the 4 to twist into the X in order for the anchors to be redundant. ktu vohpckp nmdab ejqnwt gbwtv godi hrfzzq vhpvw gdsvjdxp avyhe |
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